Active anti-aging ingredients seem to hold the secret of eternal youth. But all these active ingredients can be confusing – so we’ve asked our Vichy expert to explain the top five.
Hyaluronic Acid, Retinol, Rhamnose, Pro-Xylane and Adenosine seem to hold the secret of eternal youth. These anti-aging ingredients can be found in a whole range of products, from lifting and firming anti-wrinkle creams to wrinkle fillers and re-sculpting treatments. Understand more about how these powerful active anti-aging ingredients work with Pascale Mora, Director of Scientific Communications at Vichy International.
WHAT IS AN ACTIVE ANTI-AGING INGREDIENT?
A group of molecules that help combat cellular aging by boosting cell synthesis, which naturally diminishes over time.
Ideally, anti-aging treatments should be applied twice a day, in the morning and also in the evening, because your skin is more receptive during the night.
HYALURONIC ACID: FILLS IN WRINKLES ON THE SKIN’S SURFACE
This active ingredient is a macromolecule that occurs naturally in the skin. “It attracts and holds water in the innermost layers of the skin, creating a plump, cushioned effect,” explains Mora. It’s particularly effective against wrinkles, uneven skin texture and rough complexions.
RETINOL: DEEP-DOWN WRINKLE TREATMENT
Retinol is a vitamin A derivative, which is also naturally present in the skin. It boosts cell regeneration at the lowest level of the epidermis and prevents these new cells from aging too quickly as they rise to the skin’s surface. “By plumping up the ‘living’ layer of the epidermis, retinol fills in wrinkles deep down,” says Mora. And don’t forget: “Retinol can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so make sure you use at least some sun protection (SPF 15 or above).”
RHAMNOSE: FIRMING, LIFTING, ANTI-WRINKLE PROPERTIES
Rhamnose is a sugar extracted from birch trees. It causes a series of reactions at all levels of the skin, from the innermost dermis up through the dermo-epidermal junction to the outer layer of the epidermis. It tackles wrinkles and boosts the skin’s firmness – so can we assume it’s just like vitamin C? “Not quite,” explains Mora. “Although they both act on the deeper layers of the skin, Rhamnose has a much broader effect and works on more of the skin’s molecules.”
PRO-XYLANE: VOLUMES AND FIRMNESS PROPERTIES
Pro-Xylane is an ingredient originating from L'Oréal Research, obtained from natural Xylose, playing a key role in the initiation of GAG synthesis. It thickens the skin, gives it volume, thickness and cohesion between the dermis and epidermis. It acts on the biomechanical properties of skin, visibility of wrinkles, pigment marks and cutaneous texture.
ADENOSINE: DERMO-RELAXING EFFECT
Adenosine has a dermo-relaxing effect that can oppose the accentuation of expression lines during the day. Moreover, new results from L'Oréal Research highlight its role in the protection of cellular energy metabolism.